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My family first came to Eryri on holiday in 2023. The children were then aged four and one, and we loved it so much we have returned to this famous Welsh national park every year since.
Stretched across a vast 800-square-mile area, making up one tenth of the entirety of Wales, Eryri national park lies in the northwest of the principality, and stretches from Conwy on the north coast down to the Dyfi estuary in mid-Wales at its most southern point. It boasts 15 mountains above 3,000 feet, the largest of which is Yr Wyddfa, also known as Snowdon.
Articles that reference Eryri normally go on to talk about hiking up tall mountains, but as I have always visited the area with my two young children, I haven’t yet climbed any of these peaks. I know. It’s a bit like going to Bordeaux every summer and drinking cider. Over the summer, long lines were reported at the top of Yr Wydbroke, leading to concerns about overcrowding at the peaks. Yet every year, my family and I find plenty of reasons to love this corner of Wales without needing to hike up mountains. The sunsets are spectacular, the beaches are unreal, there are magical villages and train rides to enjoy, and there are things to do when the weather isn’t playing ball.
If, like me, you are planning to visit with children who are not yet up to summiting the dramatic peaks of Cadair Idris and Yr Wyddfa, you might find this list of the best things to do on a family holiday very useful.
Here’s my list of the eight best things to do in Eryri beyond the peaks.
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1. Hit the beach
Don’t be fooled into thinking that you’ll be sunbathing every day of your trip (this is Wales, after all), yet the beaches are some of the most beautiful in the UK. Llandanwg is tucked away in a wind-protected bay that never seems too busy. With its perfect sand, clear waters and room to spread out, on a good day you can find yourself wondering why we Brits are so intent on leaving these shores each summer. Maes Cafe sells ice cream and cold drinks.
2. Go crabbing
The inlet in the harbour at the southern end of Barmouth town is an excellent spot for crabbing. If it's sunny, you’ll recognise the spot by the sight of children (and their parents) excitedly launching nets over the railings into the water below. As a dad of two hyperactive children, I was amazed at how long this simple activity held their interest; the fixing of bits of bacon to a net, finding the best spot in the water to drop the line into, and then the ritual of walking around inspecting the contents of other people’s buckets, captivated them for far longer than expected. You can purchase nets and bait cheaply from Barmouth Angling on the high street.
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3. Visit a magical Italian-style village
Portmeirion sits on the River Dwyryd, near Porthmadog. It’s a popular destination and ticket prices reflect this: £20 for adults and £14 for children (under fives go free). And yet, it is such a unique sight that it is well worth the cost. Architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis started work on his vision to build an Italianate village on the west coast of Wales in 1925, and it took him a further 50 years to see it through. Portmeirion isn't an exercise in bizarre ostentation like one might find in the Nevada desert, though; it’s more the painstaking realisation of a lucid dream – a slice of Italy wonderfully crafted into the hills of Wales.
My son’s highlight was being allowed to stroke the barn owls held by two bird handlers in the grounds. It’s the little extras like this that go a long way when visiting a tourist destination with children.
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In the centre of the village is an ornate piazza complete with a shallow pool that children can paddle in. Take extra clothes for the youngsters as there is little chance they won’t join in once they see other kids splashing.
4. Catch the train
In the tiny village of Corris, you can ride on a narrow-gauge steam train along the Dulas Valley to Maespoeth. The line has been resurrected from an old slate mining track and the train trundles along at not much more than walking pace for about a mile and a half, but the journey is a lovely activity for children and the slow pace of travel forces you to take in the gorgeous surroundings.
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For speedier travel, the service from Machynlleth to Barmouth takes about an hour, but once the train reaches Aberdyfi, it spends much of the route hugging the coastline, with stunning views out across the sea. There are interesting points to get off en route: Aberdovey for Aberdyfi beach, and Tywyn for a stretch of sand plus amenities. At Fairbourne, just before Barmouth, fans of Under Salt Marsh may recognise some sights, as it was used as the primary filming location for the TV series.
5. Get creative
At the Quarry Pottery in the Corris Craft Centre at Corris Uchaf, you can take a ready-made vase, dragon or coffee mug and spend the next two hours blissfully painting. The £20 fee includes some tuition from the friendly staff, and your lovingly painted ornament can be posted back to your home address once it has been fired. The homely cafe in the craft centre serves great cakes.
6. Spot a rare bird or two
Just south of Machynlleth (the ancient capital of Wales), you’ll find the Dyfi Osprey Project. Here, the project aims to help this rare bird of prey reestablish itself by providing safe nesting environments. A boardwalk trail winds out over the flowery marshland to a wooden lookout point. From this vantage point, you can spy on the Ospreys through telescopes trained on their nests. When we arrived, a male Osprey had just brought a large trout back to the nest, which made for quite the visual spectacle.
Aside from the Ospreys, the marshland is a habitat for many other birds; we spotted siskins and heard the unmistakable call of a cuckoo.
7. Go to the movies
Just south of the national park in Borth is Libanus 1877, a one-screen cinema that offers a throwback to the movie-going experience of yesteryear, and is a great option for when the weather is gloomy. The walls are adorned with posters from the 1960s when famous bands would tour the local area, and other ersatz antiques decorate the interiors. It certainly makes for a point of difference over visiting a local multiplex. During holiday periods, the cinema usually shows the latest children's releases during the day.
8. Take a stroll in the Welsh countryside
There are countless walking options at your disposal in Snowdonia, but Tan y Coed, just off the A487 and Coed y Brenin, off the A470, have looped trails of varying distances that take in lovely scenery. A family-friendly route at Tan y Coed has wooden animals hidden along it, whilst at Coed y Brenin, you’ll find the cafe inside a building made from sustainable wood, with views over the valley from the first floor.
